Woke up at the break of day. When the sun was still asleep — had a coffee before she did. Drove slow down empty roads. Empty of all but one runner with pink shoes. Drove slow up the highway watching the black roll in over the ocean, eyes straining for the white.
Walked up to a desert tree, morning light lighting up the greys and green, the pink flowers on another. Stopped in all that is awe. Chose a break with about 100 people doing a paddle out, “Did someone die?” “Christ did.”
Instead of rolling my eyes in my head, I smiled at these humans, loving their God. Wandered on — to waves barely surfable with my new friend and his dad. Rode our logs upon warm crystal clear waves. Floated on my belly, looked down at baby sting rays, yellow fish, marvelled at the speckles of gold floating in the water. Missed waves, caught waves.
Left for breakfast — ate a breakfast bagel in the sunshine, smelled a pink rose, drank a coffee that is right. Pet a dog for 30 minutes with my one hand, legs draped over the wrong side of a chair. Pet another dog. Lost my keys, found my keys. Hoped across train tracks barefoot. Had a man walk up to me and say, “I’m sorry to interrupt you, but you’re one of the most beautiful women I’ve seen in a long time. And I couldn’t not tell you.” Sat and talked with people who were kind.
Drove to a different break I’d never been too. Walked with same friend down stairs carrying big green longboards, a guitar, sun hat and wet suits. Got down and he said, “Let’s sing” and so we did. Free styling, little song birds. Beautiful and sweet in the sunshine. Nerves flying, what an intimate thing. To have a voice to sing.
Surfed more endless green waves, crouched down — ankle barrels, happy in the sunshine. Took the wet suit off and swam, crystal clear and cold–happy in the sunshine. Sat and ate dried mango, drank old coffee and talked about everything in this world one might wish to talk about, yet missed everything all at the same time. Tuna, lemonade, walking barefoot, happy in the sunshine. More coffee — happy in the sunshine.
Great day, or a great life?